10 Best Bars in Chicago
2/10 - Billy Sunday
Of all the latest mixology trends—including the term “mixology”—among the most welcome is the chef-driven bar. For chefs understand balance, which is where Matthias Merges, the late Charlie Trotter’s longstanding right-hand man, comes in. His Logan Square tavern Billy Sunday serves its own house-bottled boozy sodas, a quartet of proprietary tonics, flights of vintage amaros, fernets, and bourbons and, of course, seasonal cocktails. Prime seats in the deep and narrow saloon are up front at the bar, where patrons pepper the bartender with queries like, where does fennel pollen tincture come from? And what’s up with fenugreek gomme? Thanks, again, to having a chef in charge, the elevated bar snacks—including chicken liver mousse and beef cheek pastrami tartine—mean you can find out over a couple of rounds and still pronounce “fenugreek.” —Elaine Glusac